Italy Off the Beaten Path: Sapri
We are renting a charming little summer cottage in the region of Basilicata to escape the heat of Umbria, to conduct deeper explorations of the surrounding regions, and to spend some time close to Calabria, where Isidoro has spent his summers since childhood. We are in the village of Maratea, close to the Mediterranean Sea. It is a beautiful, little seaside village, set into the mountains, full of beautiful, fragrant flowers and breathtaking views of the sea.
It is a beautiful, little seaside village, set into the mountains, full of beautiful, fragrant flowers and breathtaking views of the sea.
The other day, we took a drive to Sapri on the winding SS18. On one side the road abuts the mountain, and on the other side is the sea - - as far as the eye can see. The views of the coast are spectacular. We meandered through the little fraction of Maratea called Aquafredda (translation: cold water), along the coastal road, and in forty-five minutes we caught sight of a pretty harbour town with boats and colorful beach umbrellas marking the shoreline.
On one side the road abuts the mountain, and on the other side is the sea – as far as the eye can see.
Sapri is a beautiful seaside town located in Cilento (Campania region), on the border of Basilicata and set against a backdrop of magnificent mountains overlooking the beautiful Gulf of Policastro. Sapri is significant to the history of Italy’s unification. In 1857, Carlo Pisacane landed in Sapri with three hundred men in an attempt to defeat the Bourbons. Although they were not successful, the event engendered anti-Bourbon feelings, which led to the formation of Garibaldi's army and the eventual unification of Italy. The event was written about in a famous poem “La spigolatrice di Sapri” (“The Gleaner of Sapri”) by Luigi Mercantini.
Sapri is a beautiful seaside town located in Cilento (Campania region), on the border of Basilicata and set against a backdrop of magnificent mountains overlooking the beautiful Gulf of Policastro.
Not only is Sapri historical and picturesque, but its lungomare (promenade) is home to fantastic restaurants. As fate would have it, we arrived after 2:00 pm when most restaurants in Italy close and, unfortunately for us, we were quite hungry. There was one cute bar/restaurant still serving lunch, so we sat at a table, honestly not expecting much from the last remining open restaurant but boy, were we mistaken!
To say our meal was “spectacular” is an understatement. We had a variety of delicious, elegantly served seafood dishes paired with fantastic bottle of vermentino di Sardegna (a nod to Isidoro’s birthplace).
If you find yourself in Sapri, then you must dine at Tintobrace, across the street from the sea walk. It has clean modern décor mixed with dark wood and lots of well-placed glass and ceramics that give a high-end yet nautical vibe. Saying our meal was “spectacular” is an understatement. We had a variety of delicious, elegantly served seafood dishes paired with fantastic bottle of vermentino di Sardegna (a nod to Isidoro’s birthplace). We were ready to return before we left! The service was friendly, easy, and unhurried. It was such an unexpected surprise - - it made our day. We had recently been to Lo Scoglio to conduct a “post-Stanley Tucci fame” check-in and were disappointed with mediocre food, sloppy service, and the highest bill we ever paid for food in Italy. After our winning lunch at Tintobrace, we were ready to give Stanley a call to make a recommendation for his new show.
After lunch, we had a passegiata (a slow walk) along the lungomare…
After lunch, we had a passegiata (a slow walk) along the lungomare, then we headed to nearby Marina di Camerota, which we will save for another time. If you are conjuring your travel bucket list or you find yourself in the area and you are looking for a spectacularly scenic drive and a charming seaside village, then head to Sapri - - you will be so happy you did!
Photos: Monica Kennedy
Isidoro Langella and Monica Kennedy are experts in Italian Travel and the founders of To Amalfi With Love Tours of Italy.